Spicy Vodka Rigatoni

Bring a large pot of generously salted water to the boil and cook the rigatoni until just shy of al dente. Before draining, reserve at least 300 ml of the starchy pasta water. The pasta will finish in the sauce, so pulling it a minute early helps it absorb flavour without going soft.

Meanwhile, warm the olive oil and butter in a saute pan over medium heat. Add the finely diced shallot with a small pinch of salt and cook for 3 to 4 minutes until soft and translucent. Stir in the minced garlic and chili flakes for 30 seconds, keeping the heat moderate so the aromatics do not brown.

Add the tomato paste and cook it slowly, stirring and spreading it over the base of the pan, until it darkens from bright red to a deeper brick shade and begins to look slightly split in the fat. This step is essential for sweetness and depth, so do not rush it; it usually takes 3 to 5 minutes.

Pour in the vodka and stir vigorously, scraping up everything on the bottom of the pan. Let it bubble until the harsh alcohol smell fades and the liquid is reduced by about half. The pan should look glossy rather than watery. Lower the heat, then stir in the cream until the sauce becomes smooth and orange-pink.

Add a generous splash of reserved pasta water and bring the sauce to a gentle simmer. Tip in the drained rigatoni and toss energetically so the sauce begins to cling inside and outside the tubes. Add more pasta water in small amounts as needed until the sauce emulsifies into a fluid, glossy coating.

Take the pan off the heat and add the finely grated parmesan, tossing continuously so it melts without clumping. Season with black pepper and taste before adding extra salt; the pasta water and cheese already contribute seasoning. The correct texture is silky and loose enough to pool slightly when spooned, not stodgy.

Tear in most of the basil and give the pasta a final toss. Plate immediately in warm bowls, using tongs or a spoon to mound it neatly. Finish with the remaining basil, extra parmesan if you like, and a light sprinkle of chili flakes for colour and a little extra heat.