Chili Crisp Noodles

Bring a large pot of water to the boil and separate the pak choi leaves if using larger heads. Mix the sauce in a heatproof bowl: light soy, dark soy, rice vinegar, sesame oil, chili crisp, and brown sugar. Stir until the sugar dissolves and the mixture tastes balanced between salty, tangy, and slightly sweet.

Finely slice the garlic and separate the white and green parts of the spring onions. Heat 2 tablespoons of neutral oil in a small pan until shimmering, then carefully pour it over the garlic and the white spring onion in a heatproof bowl. Stir immediately so the aromatics sizzle and release their fragrance without burning.

Pour the hot aromatic oil mixture into the prepared sauce and stir well. This blooming step deepens the garlic and scallion flavour and helps the chili crisp perfume the whole dish. Set the sauce aside while you cook the noodles, then taste again; it should be slightly punchier than you want, because the noodles will dilute it.

Cook the noodles according to the packet instructions until chewy and just tender. In the final minute, blanch the pak choi in the same pot until bright green and crisp-tender, then lift it out. Before draining the noodles, reserve a mug of the cooking water; this starchy liquid is essential for getting a glossy, clingy finish.

Tip the drained noodles straight into a large mixing bowl while still very hot. Add the sauce and toss vigorously with tongs or chopsticks, lifting and turning until every strand is coated. Add a splash or two of the reserved cooking water and keep tossing until the sauce loosens, emulsifies, and becomes shiny rather than oily.

Fold through the green parts of the spring onions and most of the sesame seeds. Arrange the pak choi either underneath or alongside the noodles so the plate has freshness and colour. Taste and adjust with a little extra vinegar for brightness or a touch more chili crisp if you want more heat and texture.

Serve immediately in warm bowls, twisting the noodles into high mounds for presentation. Spoon any sauce left at the bottom of the bowl over the top and finish with the remaining sesame seeds. For extra richness, add a fried egg, but the noodles are strong enough to stand on their own.